LOTSA LATKES

A lot of Jewish holidays are serious and sombre, says David Sax, above, author of “Save the Deli” — but Hanukkah? “It’s a blast,” he says. “On an emotional level, Hanukkah is a purely joyful holiday. It’s all presents and chocolate and warmth and parties and doughnuts and, yes, fried potatoes, which are something everyone loves.”

The latke is one of the world’s most perfect snacks and side dishes. “It’s a greasy oniony potato fritter that’s crispy and the perfect vehicle for everything,” he says. “Sour cream and apple sauce, but also smoked and cured fish — herring, salmon, whitefish — or brisket or smoked meat, or caviar or even chana masala. I mean, what isn’t good on a latke?”

Pre-pandemic, Sax would host a Hanukkah party at his house, clearing out the furniture and filling it with family and friends and kids, all laden down with latkes. “It was a messy, loud chaos,” he says. “We found latke pieces months later in corners we didn’t even know about.”

Schmaltz Appetizing,

414 Dupont St.

“Anthony Rose can do no wrong when he’s making the food of his roots. Lacy and light, sure, but the key here is the peerless fish they’re paired with. Herring is the pro move, but the dill gravlax is crucial.”

Bernhardt’s, 202 Dovercourt Rd. “Last year they did these square ones that were puffy and crispy — little gourmet croquettes that they served with a sort of egg salad and other trimmings. Classy and delicious.”

Harbord Bakery, 115 Harbord St. “There is nothing Harbord makes that I don’t love. Their latkes are medium-sized, and are thicker, but they stand the test of time. Literally.”

Free Times Café, 320 College St. “Smaller. Lacier. Served with a ginger-spiked apple sauce. Judy Perly’s latkes are the best ones I find out of the house. And if you can have them as part of the ‘Bella! Did Ya Eat?’ Brunch on Sundays? Well, kids, you’re truly living.”

Pancer’s Original Deli,

3856 Bathurst St.

“Big and beautiful latkes from the city’s king of delis that beg to be paired with some of Pancer’s gorgeous corned beef, with a thick shmear of mustard. Then, naptime!”